benmetz.org

May 22, 2009

maze

Filed under: food — benmetz @ 7:24 am

went to maze last night and had something of an epiphany – but not in a good way.  gordon ramsey has done it again.  he’s commodified what, in theory, should be a fine culinary experience.

maze attempts to take a tapas or tasting menu approach to french-asian fusion and technically it succeeds – perhaps with the exception that about half the food we ate was too dry.  i’m guessing this is because they serve so many dishes they have to precook anything that isn’t served cold due to the high volumes of plates served.

the epiphany = where ramsey fails again and again is he’s taking a supply led approach to his catering.  the customer is pretty much ancillary in the experience.  it seems to be all about hitting some financial target or solving a technical catering challenge.  the analogy with the world of social finance in the uk is startling!  the whole thing is so up its own arse and supply led – the demand side of the equation is almost completely forgotten about!

don’t get me wrong there were one or two of the 20 dishes we ate that were interesting (but never inspiring) but give me a  kebab from the arcola street mangal in hackney anytime (and i’d save £95.50 a head too!).

mangal

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