benmetz.org

February 27, 2010

Ben Greeno at The Loft

Filed under: food — benmetz @ 6:32 pm

Earlier this week I attended The Loft which up until recently was Chef Nuno Mendes’ hybrid between private supper club and culinary laboratory.  Nuno has recently stepped out of the day to day running of The Loft, well technically the three nights a week running of it, to get new restaurant Viajante started in the old Bethnal Green town hall.  He handed the first guest appearance to chef Ben Greeno from Noma, the Copenhagen restaurant rated third in the world.

And what an enjoyable evening it was.  16 covers in a sparse open plan apartment and a decent sized but pretty much home kitted out kitchen was the venue for some inspired eating.  Cheese soup with raw mushroom and caramelised walnuts, duck hearts in a lettuce emulsion, beef onglet cooked to perfection.  But the cherry on top had to be the salmon confit.  Inspiring use of a sous vide (water bath) had a wedge of salmon cooked to perfection, melting in my mouth and the entire table stunned into silence.  The trick?  Vacuum pack the salmon along with a little rape seed oil (so that technically it’s a confit) and cook for 12 minutes at 42 degrees C.  I left the meal inspired to restart the supper club I kicked off back in 2007 and to, of course, go out and buy myself a sous vide !  Watch this space…

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